A little tutorial?

A tutorial....of sorts (who knew?!)

I use this toe pattern for all the socks I do and you end up with a nicely rounded toe.  I was writing the 'structions out for someone and thought perhaps some of you who are sock knitters might like to give it a try.

Row 1:  K6, K2 tog, place marker(s).   

Rows 2 & 3: Knit even.   

Row 4: K5, K 2 tog

Rows 5 & 6 :  Knit even
Row 7:  K4, K 2 tog
Rows 8 & 9:  K even
Row 10:  K3, K2 tog
Rows 11 & 12:  K even
Row 13: K2, K2 tog
Rows 14 & 15:  K even
Row 16: K 1; K2 tog

Row 17 & 18:  K even
Row 19:  K2 tog and then sew the stitches together.

- THESE are really cute, especially the Hello Spring project.

- Of course THIS caught my eye!

- THESE are cute and something to perhaps have on hand as your garden starts to grow.

- Have a peek through the creation galleries of THIS artist!

Today's quote is from Alison Faulkner....  "Enough is a decision, not an amount"

Answering sock question and other mumblings

 Last week I had an anonymous comment that asked what sock pattern I use for my socks, so I thought I'd share it here.  The very best pattern I've ever found that fits a multitude of feet sizes is the 'Wise Hilda's Basic Ribbed Sock' which can be found HERE.  We like it because it has a K3, P1 ribbing for the leg and the upper foot which helps it to stretch to fit various sizes of feet.

The modifications I make:
- I cast on 72 stitches for my RC because he has thick calves...then when I do the heel flap I use 35 stitches to work on with remaining 37 placed on the holder.  Then I follow the pattern as written, only for rows 2, 3 & 4 of the heel flap, I slip one and then use the remaining 34 stitches. 
- Otherwise I keep to the pattern until I reach the toe when, instead of Kate's instructions (and only because we prefer a rounded toe) I do the following:  Row 1: K6, K2tog across the row;  K 2 rows even.  Then K5, K2tog, K 2 rows even (and so on).  You may have to adjust the final decrease in the row until you reach the correct number of stitches.
- The only other modification I make is to K 10 or 12 rows of K1, P1 ribbing to start the sock for everyone except my RC (thick calves).  I don't know if the narrower ribbing is really necessary but I think it helps the socks to fit better at the top.
- I pretty much always use Paton's Kroy sock yarn because it wears well and comes in lots of interesting colourways. 

I hope those modifications aren't too hard to follow.  If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.  I know it's a pretty basic sock and doesn't have 'pretty' designs worked in but it's the favourite here and everybody is happy with them.  

******

The Resident Chef just finished making a really nice soup, so thought I'd share the recipe in case you'd like to try it.  

RESIDENT CHEF's VEGETABLE SOUP

1 onion, diced

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 T. olive oil

4 carrots, sliced
1 green pepper, diced
4 ribs celery, diced

28 oz. can diced tomatoes

8 oz. can tomato sauce
1/2 lb. frozen green beans

1/4 c. chopped parsley

1/2 T. smoked paprika

1 tsp. oregano

1/2 tsp. thyme

1/4 tsp. pepper

pinch of cayenne pepper

6 c. chopped cabbage

6 c. vegetable broth
1 tsp. salt

1 T. lemon juice

Saute onion and garlic in oil.  Add carrots, celery & pepper and saute.  Add tomatoes, beans, spices, cabbage, and broth and bring to a boil.  Simmer about 40 minutes (or all afternoon).  Season with salt and lemon juice.

******

- THIS is a cute little fellow that would be fun to make.

- I know it's not Christmas but when I came across THIS  I thought it was good enough to share.  Perhaps you could get a head start?

- You might find THIS useful.

Today's quote, from the Diary of Anne Frank, written 13 Jan 1943...."Terrible things are happening outside.  Poor helpless people are being dragged out of their homes...families are torn apart.  Men, women and children are separated.  Children come home from school to find that their parents have disappeared"  

Have we learned nothing from history?

Goop....x.....three!

 Over the weekend I mucked about with the shaving cream technique and thought I'd take a few in-process pictures to share (for further information be sure to see THIS post)...

This shows the shaving cream spread out on plastic (don't forget that step!!!!)

You can (hopefully) see the paint spread over the cream....

Here, it's been scraped using a plastic 12" ruler, removing the shaving cream/paint goop as much as possible.  Be sure there's a garbage bag and a spare pair of hands nearby!  This piece was done using wet fabric and the colours are quite muted (at least when still wet).  

Below you can see (click to embiggen) the end results.  The piece of fabric on the top was done using dry fabric and the one below was with the fabric moist.  I would recommend using dampened fabric though because when it's dry it 'gobbles' up the shaving cream and it's harder to remove. The colours are more saturated using dry fabric.  Sorry about the wrinkles but it still needs to be washed again before I press it really well.  For now this is pressed to set the colour.

- THIS is a fun idea for a quilt (scroll down to see the full version)

- You might want to check THIS out because she's starting a year that sounds like great fun for us all.  

- THIS looks like something that would be very useful to many of us.

- I looked at THESE and had a moment where I thought how much fun it would be to do one.  And then I remembered I have noplace to put it and that moment left in a hurry.  I would love to make a sewing/knitting shop with living quarters above.  And if our granddaughter lived closer (or shipping costs weren't out of this world), think of the fun I could have.

Today's quote..."Never be afraid to try something new.  Remember amateurs built the Ark...professionals built the Titanic"

UPDATED TO ADD ANOTHER QUOTE OF THE DAY.... "Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter"  - Martin Luther King Jr.“

A goopy mess?!

 In case you're curious about how I do my shaving cream fabric dyeing, here's a wee tutorial on the process I use...

- you need some white fabric - some would say it should be the 'Prepared for Dyeing' stuff, but I don't bother.  I just use white fabric.

- shaving cream - the cheap foaming kind from the dollar store

- paint - I use cheap acrylic folk art paint from the dollar store - several colours that are indicative of a moody fall sky (maybe 3 different ones)

- plastic to cover two different tables

- a large paint brush

- a straight edge, preferably plastic (I use a 12" ruler)

- paper towels and a large garbage bag

Cover both your table surfaces with plastic...I like to tape down the edges here and there with some masking tape to keep it from moving too much.  Make sure your fabric is  damp (not sopping wet but really damp...OR if you want more intensity of colour use the fabric dry...UPDATED TO ADD:  Using dry fabric means that it grabs onto more of the shaving cream and it's more difficult to remove.  I would recommend damp over dry).  Cover one plastic surface with shaving cream and spread it around.  You want it to be between 1/4 and 1/2" thick.  Squirt paint here and there, varying the colours you use.  Then, very scientifically, use the large paint brush to move it around so that it looks like it might look like sky.  Don't worry about leaving a few white areas. (see, told you it was a scientific process!!).  Carefully lay your damp fabric on top and press lightly with your hands to make sure it has connected with the paint.  Pick it up by one long edge and move to your other plastic-covered table (be careful here because walking too fast means the fabric will plaster itself to your clothes...and don't drop it either!).  Here's where a second person might be handy to help you lay it flat onto your table.  Use the straight edge to scrape the surface to remove as much of the shaving cream/paint as possible.  Use a paper towel to clean the straight edge into the garbage bag.  Allow the entire thing to dry.  Rinse carefully and allow to dry.  Press with a hot iron to set the paint.  That's all there is to it!  Sometimes I will rinse it once again, dry and press.  When I get time to muck about, I'll share pictures.  

UPDATED TO ADD:  See also THIS post for further information!

- I thought THIS was rather pretty.

- If you have a bunch of leftover yarns, perhaps THIS design might be a great use for them.

- THIS might be a fun project too.

- THIS is wonderful tuturial for a beautiful project for yourself or for use as a gift throughout the year.

Today's quote..."Sometimes the best thing that you can do is not think, not wonder, not imagine, not obsess. Just breathe and have faith that everything will work out for the best"

Another tutorial...who knew?

 Yes, who knew?  Two tutorials in such short order!!  Or maybe, to be technical, this one is more of a pattern than a tutorial.  At any rate...over the weekend I finished this scarf to accompany the hat I already made...

A close up...

And, in case you feel urged to make a scarf of your own (or for THAT gift occasion that's rapidly approaching!), here's the pattern I developed....

1 ball of Patons Canadiana yarn (or any #4 weight yarn of your choice)

8.5 mm knitting needles (either circular or DPN's)

Loosely cast on 23 (or 29 for a wider scarf).  23 stitches gives you a scarf approx. 6"x56".

Knit two rows.

Pattern Row 1:  Knit 3, *YO, K2 tog, repeat from * to last 2 sts., Knit 2

Pattern Row 2:  Knit 2; Purl to last 2 sts.; Knit 2

NOTE:  Mark Row 1 with a safety pin and keep moving it up as you go along in order to keep track of which row you're doing.  Ask me how I know!

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until ball of yarn is nearly done.

Knit 2 rows.

Cast off:  Knit 1, *Knit 1, insert left needle into front of  the two stitches on right needle, K2 tog.  Repeat from * until 1 stitch remaining.  Break yarn and pull through.

Today's quote from William Feather..."Conditions are never just right.  People who delay action until all factors are favourable do nothing"

A tutorial! Who knew?

 It's been awhile since I did any sort of tutorial for you and as I was whipping one of these up I thought perhaps you might have fun with them too.  They make great little gifts and very useful too (as Resident Chef will attest!).

Above you can see the rubbery backing and to the right is the front side that clearly shows the 'X'

So, here goes, a tutorial to make Jar Lid Openers...cheap and cheerfully...

You will need 2 pieces of fabric 7" x 7" and a piece of that rubbery shelf liner 'stuff' from the dollar store (it must be the rubbery version for this to work), also cut 7x7", along with a piece of tissue paper a bit larger than the fabric.

1.  Place one piece of fabric RIGHT SIDE UP; top with piece of shelf liner; and then the second piece of fabric RIGHT SIDE DOWN.

2. Sew around leaving approx. 3" open for turning.  Use a bit more than a 1/4" seam allowance.  Clip corners and turn, making sure the rubber side is on the outside.

3.  Press from FABRIC SIDE (use parchment paper between your fabric and your iron....if you don't and the iron touches the rubber - well, just don't do it!).

4.  Place tissue paper between the rubber side and the sewing machine plate and, using a straight stitch, topstich around the edges.

5.  Mark an 'X' from corner to corner and stitch.  

6.  Remove paper and voila!  You're done.  I like to add a little paper tag explaining that it's a jar opener, otherwise people will wonder what on earth it's for!  I often parcel one of these together with a knitted scrubby for dishes and it's a great small hostess gift; an add-on to a larger gift; or a 'thinking of you' gift.

Today the quote is from Plato..."The greatest wealth is to live content with little"

Little knitting

 Remember all those mittens I made earlier?  Well, some of the leftover yarn has been turned into a couple of pairs of socks for the littlest grandsons.  

These are pretty simple to make - they're a 'take' on the spiral socks that apparently will fit kids better/longer than those with proper heels knitted in. They look really skinny, but I can get my whole hand inside them so they stretch really well. I started at the top with 48 stitches for our 1 year old and 56 stitches for our 4 year old (and I'll use 60 stitches for our 6 year old)...did about half an inch of K1, Pl at the top and then switched to K2, P2 until I got to the toe.  

Here's what I did for the toe...
1.  (K6, k2tog)
2. (and all even rows) K
3. (K5, K2tog)
5. (K4, K2tog)
7. (K3, K2tog)
9. (K2, K2tog)
11. (K1, K2tog)
12. K
Weave yarn through stitches left on the needle, tighten and weave ends in.    ****Just remember, if you're making these, the number of cast on stitches has to be divisible by 6**** (UPDATED TO ADD:  I used sock yarn (fingering weight) and 2.5 mm needles)

Bubble, bubble, but not so much toil and trouble as you'd think!

 After I posted pictures of the soaps I made I've had several (well, a couple!) of requests for more information so I thought I'd tell you how I make them.  

You need the following: 

- Melt and Pour soap base (any type, I happen to like shea and so that's mostly what I use, although I do have some clear glycerin and some honey on my shelf).  The soap bases can be used as they are but I like to add fragrance and maybe some other additives.  Soap 'purists' would say melt and pour is cheating but I'm not willing to get into playing around with dangerous substances like lye.  

- a mold, or molds.  I prefer the silicone ones because they are much easier when removing the soap bars

- Fragrance oils - these come pre-mixed in small bottles and I often mix and combine different fragrances, depending on my whim and what happens to be 'nose-worthy' at the time

- Colorants and additives - there are liquid dyes as well as powders that you can use to color your soap and I prefer working with the liquids to avoid anything getting into the air.  For additives, there's only your imagination.  The men's version of the ones I showed in my previous post had finely ground walnut shells added.  I've seen children's soaps that had a small toy embedded inside.  

- a 4 cup glass measuring cup (if using a microwave) or you can also use a cooking pot (if using the stove).  

- a small spray bottle of rubbing alcohol

Method:

Cut the soap base into cubes about 1" square and place in either the glass measuring cup or the pot.  If using the microwave, heat in 30 second bursts, stirring between bursts, until just melted.  In my microwave it takes about 4 bursts.  I don't know how long it takes on top of the stove but I would use low heat and stir regularly.  You have to be careful it doesn't burn.  Then I let it stand for about 2 minutes to cool slightly before adding the fragrance and any other additives. As for how much fragrance oil to use - there are all sorts of suggestions around the internet for amounts.  I tend to go with about 1/2 tsp. per block of soap (which makes about 5 bars in my rectangular mold).  I would start with 1/4 tsp. and add a little more if you feel you'd like it to be stronger.    Stir thoroughly and pour into molds.  If you see little bubbles rising to the top you can spritz with a little rubbing alcohol.

There are literally thousands of ideas on the internet for various additives, scents and wrapping ideas.  I usually order my supplies from HERE - they ship to both Canada and the US.  I've ordered fragrance oils from other sources but found they aren't as nice.  

Hope this helps and that you're inspired to
try making your own!

Today the quote is from Mr. Rogers..."Frankly, there isn't anyone you couldn't learn to love once you've heard their story"

Another beginning and a little tutorial

 I've made several of these that will be added to the Christmas box and thought maybe some of you might like making them as well.  So....a mini tutorial....

Easy Peasy Dish Scrubbers

1 ball of Red Heart Scrubby Yarn

5.5 mm knitting needles, either circular or straights

Cast on 22 stitches and knit every row until scrubbie is square. Loosely cast off.  One ball of the Scrubby yarn will make four.  These wear like iron and do a great job on your dishes, pots and pans.  

And...another landscape begins.  This is the photo I'm using for inspiration...

Original photo by Robert St. Clair
and used with his kind permission

The raw beginning!

It seems like Blog-grrr is doing a new 'thing' and has
changed the way links are done.  Hopefully it will
be okay on your end but don't be surprised if you
have to do a two-step process to get to the links.
Hopefully it's just a hiccup and they'll fix it soon!

Today's quote..."Better an oops than a what if"

Jewelry Roll Tutorial

 Here's the tutorial for the jewelry holder if you'd like to make one (or several!) for yourself or to use as gifts.  If you do make one, please let me know if any of the directions are not clear.  

MAGPIE's JEWELRY HOLDER

SUPPLIES:

-         Fabric for outer cover and inner lining,  9”x18”

-         Fabric for interior pockets – assorted sizes

-         9” (minimum) zipper

-         Lightweight iron-on interfacing

-         Quilt batting,  9”x18”

-         2 medium or large dome fasteners

-         Plastic canvas, 1”x7”

-         2 buttons, optional

-         Ribbon, for ties - approx. 50"

-         Bias tape (purchased, or make your own)

CUTTING:

-         1 piece each 9x18” of the outer cover, inner lining and quilt bat

-         1 piece 9x7” interior fabric (for lower pocket)

-         1 piece 9x8” interior fabric (for middle pocket)

-         2 pieces 8 ½” x 7”  interior fabric (for pocket flaps)

-         1 piece 9x8” interior fabric (for lower zippered pocket)

-         1 piece 9x9” interior fabric (for upper zippered pocket)

-         2 pieces 1” x 24” exterior fabric (for ties)

-         BIAS TAPE – long enough to go around entire outside edge of holder – you may used purchased tape or make your own by cutting strips of fabric 1 ½” wide by the length required

 

ASSEMBLY (NOTE: ¼” seam allowances unless otherwise noted)

LOWER POCKET

1.     Fold 9x7” interior lower pocket fabric wrong sides together so measures 9 x 3 ½”.  Press fold.  Cut piece of iron on interfacing 9x3 ½” and apply to one half.  Topstitch along folded edge leaving remaining three sides open.  Lightly mark pocket stitching lines 3” inside each edge to create 3 pockets.

 

             MIDDLE POCKET

1.     Fold 9x8” piece of interior middle pocket fabric in half  right sides together to measure 9x4”.  Apply interfacing cut 9x4” to one half.  Stitch long edge, leaving sides open.  Turn and press.  Topstitch folded edge.  Lightly mark pocket stitching line 4 ½” from edge.

FLAPS

(make 2).  Fold 8 ½ x 7” piece of interior fabric right sides together  so measures 8 ½ x 3 ½”.  Apply 8 ½”x3 ½”  interfacing to one half.  Round the outer two corners and stitch, leaving an opening for turning.  Turn & press.  Topstitch all but folded edge. 

ZIPPERED POCKET

1.    Fold 9x8” piece of interior lower zip pocket fabric right sides together.  Press fold. Apply 9”x4” interfacing to one half.  Stitch long edge, turn and press.

2.    Fold 9x9” piece of interior upper zip pocket fabric wrong sides together.  Press fold and apply  9 x 4 ½”interfacing to one half. 

3.    Apply zipper to the folded edges of each pocket piece by topstitching.  Trim extra zipper length as needed (careful – don’t use your good scissors!)

EARRING HOLDER

1.    Cut plastic canvas 1x7” making sure edges are as smooth as possible. 

2.    Cut 2 pieces of interior fabric 3 1/2"x2”.  Fold in one long edge ½ “ and press.  Fold right sides together and stitch raw edges with ½” seam allowance.  Clip corners.  Turn & press.

3.    Insert ends of plastic canvas and stitch in place.

4.    Center button on fabric end and stitch in place.  Add dome fastener to back.  Repeat for other fabric end.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

1.     Sandwich exterior fabric WRONG side up, batting, and lining fabric RIGHT side up.

2.    Align lower pocket and pin in place

3.    Align middle pocket with lower edge 2 ½” above the top edge of the lower pocket and using coordinating thread topstitch in place along lower edge.

4.    Using coordinating thread stitch pocket lines through all layers.

5.    Align pocket flap ¾” above lower pocket and stitch along top edge. Repeat with other flap  and stitch above the middle pocket.

6.    Center earring holder between lower pocket flap and the middle pocket and apply remaining half of the dome fasteners.

7.    Align stitched edge of zipper pocket approximately ¾” above middle pocket flap and stitch along bottom edge. 

8.    Trim off any excess fabric and batting along top edge.  Measure and mark 1 ½” from top corners in both directions.  Join marks and trim (or you may round edges if you prefer). 

9.    Cut two pieces of ribbon for ties – one 28” long and the other 20” long. Center ties with ties lying towards the body of the holder

along top edge and baste in place. 

   10.Apply bias tape to outside edge by machine, fold over raw edge, and hand stitch in place.  NOTE: If making your own bias tape, cut fabric 1 ½” wide and 2” longer than outside measurement of the holder.  Fold one edge in 3/8” and press.  Stitch around outside of holder, fold over and hand stitch to finish.  

Today's quote..."Don't think outside the box, think of what you can do WITH the box"

Surprise!!!

It's been absolutely forever since I've given you any sort of tutorial so I think it's time, don't you?  Last week we had our monthly little CQTeers crafting group meeting and it was my turn to play hostess.  One of the duties of being hostess is to come up with some sort of 'program' which can involve learning a new technique or making something.  One of our members had mentioned perhaps making a needlebook so this is the idea I came up with...

My photography skills obviously are in need of a tutorial, but you can get the idea I'm sure!  Many of you could simply make your own pattern using the photo as inspiration, but here's the pattern anyway...

You will need to print the pattern to the size you require (mine ended up measuring approx. 8" x 3 1/2", but size is up to you).  

SUPPLIES:  pattern; three pieces of light-colored felt in the size of your pattern;  freezer paper (optional); assorted embroidery floss in colors of your choice; and a piece of HeatnBond (also optional).

HOW TO:   Trace the design onto freezer paper and iron onto felt (this step is optional, and you can use tissue paper instead).   In order to transfer the windows, etc. pattern onto the felt it's helpful to use a needle to make a tiny hole at the outer corners and then use either a fine tip marker or pencil to mark through the holes.  Then when you remove the freezer/tissue paper you can easily see the marks.  Embroider as desired.  If using HeatnBond, iron onto the back of the outside piece and then onto another piece of felt so that the back of your stitching is covered.  Trim inner felt to match the pattern and embroider around the outside using a buttonhole stitch in a thread that matches the color of the felt closely.  Cut another piece of felt into a rectangle that will fit inside the needle book for the 'pages' and stitch across the dotted line as shown in the pattern to hold in place.  At this point I fold the needle book the way I want it and run another line of stitching across the roof top to hold in place.  There you go - a needle book, courtesy of MA and the CQTeers!

Today the quote is from Mark Twain..."Kindness is the language that the deaf can hear and the blind can see"

Nearly finished....maybe

Yesterday I had some time to put a few more finishing touches on the house project, as you can see from this picture...

I've added the tree top on the left and changed the shrub on the right from what it was.  

For those of you interested in how I might have made the tree top...it originated with making some confetti fabric....

I chose about six different tones of green fabric, layered them, and then pretty much shredded them with my rotary cutter.  Once that was done I placed them between two pieces of melt-away stabilizer and then heavily stitched through all the layers.  I rinsed away the stabilizer (if you do this, be sure not to throw the rinse water down the drain because there's a lot of teeny fabric bits that escape, along with the glue....probably not good for your drain).  After it dried, I (for lack of a better description) stuck my fingers in some of the holes to embiggen them to give it a more 'airy' look.  Hmmm.  Not such a good result because a lot of the fabric bits ended up being 'wrong side up' and it was too white.  So....I watered down some different green shades of folk art paint and 'blobbed' some on here and there to camouflage where the fabric was wrong side up....plus it gave an added dimension to the colouring overall.  Once that dried, I simply cut the tree shapes from it and stitched them onto my quilt.  Then I applied a layer of fine tulle over top to be sure to corral any stray little bits of fabric.  

Another anonymous quote for you today...."One smile can start a friendship.  One word can end a fight.  One look can save a relationship.  One individual can change your life."

And....another one.......

This is another of the postcards that are now in the hands of the recipients...

*************

In yesterday's comments, Sarah asked how I do my images for my crazy quilts, so I thought I'd answer here so everyone can know.  The images I use come from the internet - just search 'Christmas images - free' (or whatever criteria you like).  Then I save them to my word processing program on the computer and re-size them to suit whatever I'm creating.  You can usually get several images on one page.  

I then choose either a white or off-white fabric with a fine weave (good quality cotton is my preference).  Press it really well to be sure there are absolutely no wrinkles.  Cut a piece of freezer paper (the stuff that butcher's use to wrap meat - waxed on one side) to approx. 10 x 13" and press it onto the fabric.  Re-cut to measure 8 1/2" x 11" and then carefully re-press the edges to be sure they are adhered thoroughly.  Make sure there are no loose threads anywhere.  (Note: you CAN cut your freezer paper to 8 1/2x11" to begin with but in my experience the edges never seem to adhere properly and often catch in the printer).  

At this point I run a 'test' piece of paper through my printer so that I know which way up to place my fabric.  If you're satisfied, load your fabric/freezer paper sandwich and print.  Press really well once again to 'set' the colours as much as possible.  Remove freezer paper and use in your projects.  NOTE:  This process is NOT water proof, so don't use it in anything that you plan to wash.

***************

Today your quote is from Francis of Assisi...."For it is in giving that we receive"

Rust dye - a tutorial of sorts!

I was asked in the comments to share more about the process I used for rust dyeing my fabrics - and about the washability of them.  I'm afraid I never have washed any of the fabrics I've dyed, but I would be fairly certain that they would be fine, particularly if the fabric was well rinsed after dyeing. Here's what I did....

SUPPLIES:  - fabric scraps, preferably cotton and preferably washed beforehand to remove any manufacturer's sizing;   some steel wool (found at the hardware store) and some vinegar.  Some sort of flat container large enough to hold several layers of fabric (I used an aluminum disposable pan that is meant for roasting a turkey - found at the grocery or dollar store).  If you happen to have access to some old washers, nails or whatever might rust (raiding your DH's workshop might yield all sorts of goodies) you can add those to the mix.  Some salt.  

PROCESS:  I laid down a piece of fabric in the bottom of the pan and then pulled long pieces of steel wool out of the pad and laid them down over the fabric.  Repeat the layers as often as you'd like.   You can add any other bits of metal to your layering.  If you have a spare spray bottle, fill it with vinegar, and moisten each layer well as you make them....if you don't have a spray bottle, just wait until the layers are complete and slosh the vinegar over top until everything is wet.  Some people suggest putting the entire thing into a large garbage bag and then tying it shut.  I didn't, because I want to watch the process and stop it when I felt happy with what I was seeing.  I found that about 8-10 hours was long enough.  

When you feel it's 'cooked', carefully remove the strands of steel wool and set them aside for a later session.You might want to wear rubber gloves for that because it will stain your fingers somewhat. REMEMBER whatever you set those rusty metals onto will end up being dyed too, so be careful!!!  Rinse the fabrics really well until the water runs clear.  I then put about 1/4 cup of salt into the sink along with enough water to cover the fabrics, swish around until salt is dissolved, and let sit for a few minutes (5-10 mins is enough).  Rinse thoroughly again.  Dry your masterpieces, press them and you're all done.  

Today your quote is from an unknown source..."No one can destroy iron, but it's own rust can.  Likewise no one can destroy us.  But our own mindset can"